Sunday, November 20, 2011

Pasta Class 3 - Cabonara, Bolognese, and Egg Noodles

Carbonara
This is the single most fattening sauce I've ever seen in my life. Never-the-less, it's delicious... smooth, rich, creamy.
  • 250g Guanciale (cured hog jowl) or double-smoked bacon, diced
  • 450g Spaghetti
  • 100g Pamigiano Regiano, grated
  • 100g Peccorino Romano, grated
  • 4 Eggs
  • 2L Whipping Cream
  • Butter
Start off by gently heating the Guanciale (or other fatty pork) to render. When all of the fat has melted, remove the pork bits and set aside. Drain off most of the rendered fat.

Melt some butter in the same pan. Add the whipping cream, bring to a simmer, reduce by half.

(TIP: You should not attempt to boil any cream with less than 35% fat.)

Meanwhile whisk the eggs in a bowl.

Remove the pan from heat once the cream has reduced. Add the grated cheeses, and stir gently to combine... being careful not to stir much, as this will cause the sauce to be stringy. Add the whisked eggs, the pork bits, the pasta, and some more butter for good measure.

SERVE IMMEDIATELY - This dish should be made "a la minute." It will not reheat well because the re-heating will cause those fatty cheeses to split.

Ragu alla Bolognese
This is one of many versions of Bolognese. The choice of ingredients is highly regional within Bologna, mostly depending on availability and tradition. Regardless of the ingredients, a Bolognese sauce needs lots of time and love to develop rich homely flavors. Works best with a textured pasta such as rotini.
  • 30 ml Olive Oil
  • 120g Pancetta, minced finely
  • 1 medium Onion, brunoise
  • 2 ribs celery, brunoise
  • 1 medium Carrot, brunoise
  • 250ml Dry White Wine
  • 80ml Tomato Paste
  • 400g Beef Chuck, ground
  • 300g Pork Shoulder, ground
  • 2 cloves Roasted Garlic (optional)
  • 500ml Stewed Tomatoes (optional)
  • 750ml Beef Stock
  • Fresh Sage and Oregano (optional)
  • 125ml Whipping Cream (optional)
Start off with the onion and pancetta on low heat. Once the onions have softened and the fat melted, add the celery and carrots, sauteing until softened. Add the white wine, continuing to cook down until "au sec" - most of the liquid should be evaporated. Add the tomato paste, and cook it with the veggies for a few minutes - this will reduce its bitterness. Set this mixture aside.

Use the same pan to brown the meat in batches, starting with the pork... this should release some fat so that you won't have to use much oil. Keep your arm moving - breaking up the meat into tiny tidbits with the bottom of a wooden spoon for a true Bolognese.

Return the veggies and browned meat to the pan, along with half of the beef stock, the stewed tomatoes, a bay leaf, and fresh herbs (if using). Bring it to a low simmer, then proceed to cook it long and slow, adding stock after it has dried up - reduce and fortify repeatedly. What you want is a moist, but not liquidy, meat sauce. This should take at least an hour.

(If you want the Bolognese to be "saucy" then add some tomato sauce towards the end.)

Finish the sauce with some warm whipping cream, if using.

Egg Yolk Pasta
Mustard-yellow, soft, smooth pasta dough... good for making Chinese egg noodles.

12 egg yolks
240 g all purpose flour
Pinch of salt