Sunday, December 4, 2011

Northern Italian Cooking - Class 5: Osso Bucho, Milanese Risotto, Liver Pate

Osso Bucho
A bit gamey, and definitely saucy, this is a rich and tender dish is for veal fans - especially those who enjoy marrow. For some reason this recipe tastes better the next day.
  • 4 pieces Veal Shank
  • Flour, for dredging
  • 6 oz Carrot + Celery + Onion, brunoise
  • 2 sprigs Parsley
  • 1 sprig Roseemary
  • 2 cloves Garlic
  • 60ml White Wine
  • 2 canned Tomatoes (and some juice)
  • 1 slice Lemon
  • Olive Oil
  • 2 cups Beef Stock
  • S+P
Heat olive oil in a large pan (or dutch oven - whatever you plan to braise in). Season the veal, dredge in four, brown on both sides, then set aside. Saute the carrots, celery, and onion until soft. Add garlic, parsley, and rosemary, and saute for a few more minutes. Add white wine, and reduce. Finally, add the tomatoes (crushed), lemon, veal, and enough beef stock to cover the veal half way.

Cover and braise LOW AND SLOW 300F for 2-3 hours. You want the meat to be "fork tender" - but not falling apart in the pan. When ready, remove the meat and reduce the sauce on the stove until thickened. Return the meat and serve.

Milanese Risotto
Part of what makes this "Milanese" is using tonnes of Saffron - to the point where it's bright orange-yellow. Persian saffron is recommended.
  • 4 Tsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 350 g Arborio Rice (or Carnaroli)
  • 4 Tsp White Wine
  • 1/2 Onion, finely chopped
  • 1 large pinch Saffron
  • 2 L Beef Stock (low sodium)
  • 100 g Butter
  • 60 g Parmesan Cheese, grated
Heat the beef stock in a pot on the side... keep it hot. This will allow the risotto to keep cooking continuously, resulting in the proper texture: creamy with a bit of firmness (not mushy).

Lightly toast the rice with olive oil in a sauce pan for 1 minute, stirring. Add the white wine and stir constantly until it is absorbed. Add the saffron, and enough beef stock to completely cover the rice. Stir constantly, keeping it at a simmer. Once the liquid has been absorbed, add more beef stock to just cover the rice. Repeat the process until the risotto is done: it should not stick in your molars. Remove from heat.

Now stir in the butter, then the Parmesan, and adjust seasoning. It's important to adjust the salt at the very end because Parmesan is fairly salty.

Liver Pate
  • 400 g Chicken Livers
  • 1 Onion, chopped finely
  • 1 Carrot, chopped finely
  • 1 stalk Celery, chopped finely
  • 2 cloves Garlic, minced
  • 250 ml White Wine
  • 60 g Capers
  • 60 g Anchovy Paste
  • 50 g Butter
  • 1 loaf Italian Bread (for making crostini)
Trim the fat and veins from the chicken livers. Rinse in cold water, pat dry, and chop into even pieces. Season.

Heat oil and butter in a pan until slightly browned. Add the livers and let them brown on 1 side. Stir the livers and cook another few minutes. Add the onions, carrots, celery, and garlic and continue sauteing until softened, about 10 minutes. Add the wine and reduce.

Empty the pan into a food processor, along with the capers, anchovies, and more butter. Optionally add a squeeze of lemon. Blend into a fine pate and season to taste.

Forming: Splash some water into a ramekin, line it with plastic wrap, empty the liver into it, and bang it on the working surface a few times to compact. Refrigerate. When ready to serve, carefully flip onto a plate, allowing gravity to work it out of the ramekin.